Prologue:
Today’s motto: “We thought we were prepared….”
There were many moments in time leading up to the inception of a cycling tour, beginning with my required readings on A Walk Across America and Into the Wild (because I didn’t want to read that Of Mice and Men crap in school), followed by my personal choice, Ghost Rider (read all of these books, please). A common theme intertwining the nonfiction nature expeditions was something like, “it’s no longer a busy, ignorant world, but one more calm than you could ever know.” I wanted that.
There was the drive to become a better cyclist, although I never quite had the tolerance for strict training regimens and nutrition guides. With The Beast newly gifted to me, I began to notice its potential.
I garnered a newfound appreciation for John Denver. And then I saw this picture:
That’s what did it.
Little did I know that was actually Alastair Humphreys. Yet another story worth checking out, and if it’s the only story you read today, read that one.
Prep Time:
I gave myself about nine months of planning, like an actual baby. One of my first thoughts was, “I just need to get out there. Who’s coming with me?” I asked everyone I knew, cyclist or not! In fact, I had about 10 other riders interested in the job. “That sounds awesome! I’d love to try it!” Yeah…. Ten riders dwindled down to one. I was disappointed, to say the least, but now I say those dudes missed out, big time.
Next step, where do we go, how do we get there, and what do we bring? Unpack all of this, will you, and the list becomes discouraging at best. I’ll write another blog that goes well into the details of this. Long story short, I decided the following:
•A good bike. Schwinns and Roadmasters are unacceptable.
•Practice riding long distances. I rode my first two centuries during this time.
•Tools, camping gear, food, water, and weather-resistant bags to put them in.
•Lights and electronics, enough to survive if we’re in a pinch.
•A painstaking time crafting a route with wide shoulders on Strava.
•Checking for churches, fire halls, and large patches of grass to spend our nights.
•Most importantly, the destination: The Shenandoah Valley. A 760 mile journey.
Something like that. I found the details exhausting, and I kept altering little details to try and make everything just perfect. I was down to the last minute buying the right gear, and when the time came, all my gear clocked in at an estimated 100lbs.
Yikes. As the start date inched closer to me, I became stone-cold terrified. Despite being a mildly experienced rider, I was NOT at all an experienced adventurer. One month to the date, and I still couldn’t figure out how to get the route out of Virginia. Just looking at the map of the harrowing Appalachian outlands scared the hell out of me. This was the first moment, of many, where I needed to stick to my guns and trust that this was going to work. Thankfully, my family was nothing but supportive. In fact, my mom sounded more okay with it than the prospect of me riding the MS 150. My dad called and talked as though he would never see me again. Meaghan was sad, and my dog Alfie lay confused as to why he couldn’t come. The guilt was real, but I really wanted this badly.
The night of the tour, in true Spider-Man fashion, Alfie started producing bloody stool. It’s very difficult to tell with a dog why this happens, as there are an overwhelming amount of reasons. One look at his devoured toys proved our theory that he ate string, which can cause severe intestinal issues. I say Spider-Man fashion, because the scene where he has to choose between saving Mary-Jane and the tram car full of children stuck to me as a token ultimatum. I initially considered dropping the whole trip to take care of the dog, but Meaghan helped convince me that I should go, and that Alfie will be fine.
He was. Don’t worry.
The Tour:
• • • Day 1: Philadelphia, PA – Susqhuehannock State Park: 75.7mi
Finally!! Off we go. The rider that survived the lottery of doubts and cancellations: Daniel Lan. A Phi Mu Alpha brother, and an exceedingly detailed human being. The day starts at 5:00am. I felt excited! Wait…. I felt sick. Oh no…. I felt worried. That means I was ready. I took a quick sunscreen marinade, loaded up the bike, and we were off.
33 miles in. No issues so far. In fact, I think we were pushing a little too hard, just gunning for it. Into Delaware, and barely a hill in sight. We come cruising down a corner, make the right turn and….
Listen, for anyone who has ever ridden in the Northeast, you learn quickly how unforgiving the terrain is. Rockland Road, creeping up to a maximum 20% incline. It was a wall, and we got squashed against it. This was the first of Dan’s many leg cramps that day. Every hill for the next 30 miles was horrendous and painful, especially for him (trust me, my pain is just delayed). It was supposed to be a 100 mile day, followed by another 100 mile day. Dan expressed great concern at this now, and I could tell neither of us were going to get through that. I had to start thinking on my feet and figure out how to make the trip shorter. It was a humiliating moment, one of many.
We hit yet another wall at mile 75. The torrential downpour and lightning was an added bonus. I was thinking about laying the tent down somewhere in Susquehannock State Park (legal or not, I didn’t care at this point). In fact, I was so angry, I nearly missed a miracle that happened.
“Ya guys need a place to stay?” I almost ignored him. Hmph! We’re fine. But then he asked again. I looked over, defeated, and unsure of this gesture, looked back to Dan, and said, “Sure, that would be great.” A young kid farming in the field, and he went out of his way to talk to us and bring us to safety. I then met his father, and after a good deal of friendly conversation, he said, “Ya know, my son asked me if he did the right thang, bringin’ you guys in here. I tol him he did the right thang helpin’ someone out here.” We were in good hands.
• • • Day 2: Susquehannock State Park, PA – Baltimore, MD: 63.8mi
We slept in a barn that night, and when I tell people that, it sounds like the makings of a horror film. The ground was rocky, and the smell of cow shit pungent. We were still tired, kind of dreading the day ahead, but slowly got ourselves up. It didn’t really occur to us that repacking the bike would take as long as it ended up taking. I think about two hours later, we were ready to ride again. We heavily thanked the whole family, and I promised myself to keep them anonymous. But I don’t know how we would have fared without them.
We left later than I hoped; I’m used to pedaling out at the crack of dawn, but it was maybe 9:30am when we got back on the road. About 6 miles in, we both discovered how sore we really were. If Dan’s hands weren’t in pain, then they were numb. And my right knee and left hamstring were acting up, badly. All we could do was hope Baltimore had no hills.
Baltimore has hills. So does its neighbor, Towson. We trudged through at snail’s pace, determined to make it work.
The biggest problem was that we had not planned on staying in Baltimore. Keep in mind, this was back when I was in college, and had hardly a penny to my name. I was always too proud to ask for money, and just made it work. I even saved a few bucks, but just ended up not saving enough for this trip. My card was declined earlier that morning for having $12 in my account. Thankfully, Dan was incredibly helpful here. A hotel was crossed off the list. Besides, we didn’t carry all this gear for nothing, right? I hoped I would have some good luck couch surfing, and spent most of the day in this huge vat of anxiety, trying to find us a place to stay. No one was biting. No one.
We got into Baltimore, and stopped by Baltimore Bicycle Works. It was nice talking to some of our kind, and they even gave us a heads-up of a place we could pitch out tents for the night. The cashier, David, said, “There’s this old abandoned skate park a half mile away. You could probably crash there.” SURE! I’m up for anything, man.
Well, we struck out again. This place didn’t even exist anymore, replaced by a school fenced in by barbed wire. After lengthy deliberation and searching, we bit the bullet and found a cheap motel. It was late, and there was too much running around changing plans. What was supposed to be an enjoyable trip was starting to turn into an impossible endeavor. At least the burgers were good. And Baltimore’s a pretty neat city. A little grungy, but hardly any more grungy than Philly.
• • • Day 3: Baltimore, MD – Herndon, VA: 77.1mi
Yep, another rough day ahead of us. Dan was losing faith, fast. He presented what sounded like a pretty nice idea, stopping in Shenandoah, sight-see, and then take a train back home. I almost took the bait…. it was just, I needed this trip to work, all the way. I couldn’t cop out. God, I wouldn’t let myself. But that’s really all I had to keep me going forward.
We didn’t really start riding until almost noon. That’s when I knew Dan was beat. With 77 miles and 100lbs to carry, we were gonna have to do some night riding. Not that night riding is bad, but its economical for the touring cyclist to leave as early as possible. This was our second-longest day in terms of mileage, but definitely our longest in terms of saddle time, at 8.5 hours of riding. Ouch.
My route got pretty screwed when the wildlife refuge we were supposed to ride through was closed. Our only way out was taking the interstate for 2 miles. It didn’t seem exactly legal, but to hell with the rules now.
Getting into D.C. was the only time we experienced some rude drivers, and it was really only one driver. I was pleasantly surprised to see that D.C. had some fantastic interlaced bike lanes. The lanes were in the middle of the street, with many trails branching out for miles beyond city limits. It pretty much led us straight to that dirty apartment everyone talks about….
24 miles still to go. Herndon is my friend Sonya’s town. Her mother, Janice, was very excited to host us. I was hoping we’d get there before dark at 8:00pm, but by then we were hardly out of the city. I think we had about 18 miles to go at that point. To put into perspective how slowly we were going, Strava averaged us at 8.6mph that day; twice as slow as your average amateur roadie. The hills were flat-out killing us, and pushed us way past our threshold. In fact, we both found a second wind at one point. When you’re 110% toasted, there’s always a moment of rejuvenation before the double-down crash. It’s a territory I’ve never quite experienced, and it’s hard to put into words unless you’ve been there.
Finally peeling off the Washington & Old Dominion Trail, at exactly 10:00pm, we were welcomed with open arms. There was a lot of laundry to do, and I had my work cut out for me planning the rest of the trip. I was somehow able to plan a rest day and still get back to work on time, but otherwise I spent a few hours planning where in Shenandoah we would stay, and how to get home from there. I had to forfeit climbing Skyline Drive as deeply as I wanted to, dialing back from those breathtaking heights John Denver sings about.
I cut 190 miles of the trip. It was heartbreaking.
• • • Day 4: Herndon, VA – Front Royal, VA: 62.2mi
Janice made us the breakfast of kings. The thank-you’s are endless.
Dan’s right-hand pinky was completely numb and shaking. Riding six more days like this was not an option. Down the road was Green Lizard Cycling, probably one of my favorite bike shops I’ve ever been to. The goal was to buy ergo-grips. Up to this point, I had no pain in my hands whatsoever (something that would come back to bite me on my tours with drop bars) due to these:
Dan found some similar style grips, but due to his bike being older, they didn’t quite fit on the bars. Some filing would do the trick! Good thing I brought a foot-long metal file. After the file snapped in half, he did manage to install the grips.
It was here I met two people. One was the sweet-hearted cashier, and the other was the crotchety crusty customer. A 70-year-old man who judged my work as a therapist as worthless and useless nonsense. He believed he had all the answers. But hey, maybe I’ll see him again one day in a skilled nursing facility, and I would make sure that my work with him is the most meaningful experience, something he is clearly lacking in his life.
But also fuck off. I do incredible work and I don’t play helpless sheep to the world like you do.
This was our second-“shortest” day, excluding the rest day, but by far the most painful. In fact, I have never had a more painful ride than that day. I had to pedal unevenly because my right knee was tearing up. Goes without saying my ass was killing me. I discovered that a saddle that’s deemed comfortable for eight hours does not necessarily mean it’ll be comfortable for four days. I don’t remember much else from this day other than the overbearing pain.
Forever soon reared its head, and Front Royal, the gateway to Skyline Drive, the entrance to the Blue Ridge Mountains, was upon us. But we hit another snag of bad luck. Two days prior to our arrival, a bear attacked a family while backwoods camping. Their dog didn’t make it, and they heavily restricted access to the mountains without a bevy of essential equipment. Long story short, they didn’t want us camping out there, but they gave us a list of nearby campsites. The closest (a painful five miles), Gooney Creek Campground. We got there late at night, but Pam, the angel in charge, heard our story and let us stop by.
The zenith of the whole trip: I cracked my phone screen. There’s a first time for everything.
Night #2 camping. There were a lot more bugs out this way. It rained for the third time, so our clothes were just forever soaked at this point.
You may be wondering why there are hardly any pictures. That’s because we were both so damn miserable, we hardly thought about the visual documentation. Don’t worry, that’s about to change.
• • • Day 5: Rest Day in Front Royal, VA: 22.9mi
Not needing to necessarily go anywhere today was a true blessing. Especially in this little nook of Shenandoah:
We had no specific plan today. But since we were in the area, we wanted to sight-see a little bit. We were still tired, but this is the destination, and we were feeling rather energized. After some discussion, we had three goals: check out the Skyline Caverns, peruse Front Royal, and attempt to readmit ourselves up Skyline Drive itself. The best part was we did not have to carry more of our gear, just some water and electronics. 100lbs turned into 40lbs, and going from a heavily loaded bike to a rather “weightless” ride, everything feels different. We felt strong. Also a bit wobbly; your arms do SO much work that the steering actually feels incredibly loose. Perspective is important.
You would think that after all this suffering, a 1,300ft climb and 23 miles of riding would be out of the question. Bu that recovery ride is key; going at a relaxing pace, there’s something to be said with that four mile climb stretching your legs out. Hell, it’s almost like a massage, seriously. Normally, four miles is a 15-20min ride. This little mountain took us just under an hour (and only 8 minutes to ride down, following the speed limit even). It was not an easy climb by any means, but that feeling I got next made everything worth it:
I cried.
We suffered so much to get here, just to get a glimpse. And even though we weren’t here for long, it was like nothing else seeing our hard work pay off like this. The stories are true; the Blue Ridge Mountains are as beautiful as they say. This was at mile 290.1. Every tenth counts. That’s what got us here. One step at a time.
The Skyline Caverns are 2,000ft below. An unexpected charmer. The tour guide said something about there being rare anthodite crystalline structures here. The lights are just for show. The kids like them, but so do the adults.
It was a day of firsts. Our last first for the day was going to watch the newly released Suicide Squad. How many people can say they’ve watched an anti-hero movie in theaters wearing their cycling outfits?
We both needed this day, badly. The rest of the trip was a piece of cake. Well, kind of.
• • • Day 6: Front Royal, VA – Hagerstown, MD: 75.3mi
What a difference one rest day does to you! It was our second-fastest day, averaging 11.3mph (big numbers for us lumbering dogs). I have to say, this was by far our easiest day. Something changed us. I can’t quite describe it. We felt superhuman.
We took the Confederate war trails out to Hagerstown. I learned that my grandparents got married out there. It’s a small, but interesting town. David from Baltimore Bicycle Works talked it up a little more than what it actually was. He had a knack for doing that.
Not much else to say there! We stayed in a motel again. They asked for our license plates, and didn’t seem to understand why. we. didn’t. have. license. plates.
• • • Day 7: Hagerstown, MD – Spring Grove, PA: 63.1mi
Don’t get too cocky.
The day started with a flat. Not quite sure how, but Dan’s tire got flat overnight. My tires were still nearly completely full (oh, how the tides would turn in future tours). A flat is generally hardly a setback, so we were ready to go quickly.
We met two touring cyclists on this trip. I can’t remember when we met the first guy, but we were eating at some fancy golf club restaurant. This guy toured on singletrack. Nuts. The other guy we met today. He was training with his 70lb rear trailer, and planning to do the Atlantic Coast Bicycle Route: Bar Harbor, Me – Key West, FL: 2,611mi. Super nice people.
This guy was training in the right place, we soon found out, because we were not out of the Blue Ridge Mountains yet! Another gritty climb, this time with nasty bugs and the sting of sweat constantly. The fight was between going fast to outrun the bugs, going slow to avoid fatigue, and stopping to wipe off the sweat. The reward was some paved switchbacks down the face of the mountain. Those downhills are always much too quick.
Once again, we did not know where our beds were going to be. I called up my old friend, Jeremy, who had family in the area. Once again, they welcomed travelers with open arms, like it was just yesterday that we saw them. It’s all truly a humbling experience.
One quick stop in Gettysburg, to the Blue & Gray Bar. I had a Confederate burger, because all of the Union burgers sounded boring. We also paid a visit to Gettysburg Cycling and Fitness, since Dan’s square-tapered crank arms were giving him trouble. Damn that old technology.
We’re getting closer. Finally in Pennsylvania, which turns out to be a behemoth of a state.
• • • Day 8: Spring Grove, PA – Lititz, PA: 45.4mi
I had already pre-arranged a place to stay with a friend. It was a relatively short distance to Laura’s house, the shortest distance so far. I was hoping it would be a “recovery” of sorts.
It was not.
A big chunk of our day was dedicated to the Verizon store. My phone did not enjoy boiling in the sun, and the LG G3 was notorious for heating up to begin with. It was not the kind of problem I wanted to have. I couldn’t really do anything about it for the rest of the trip. My phone’s screen would turn off out of nowhere, and would rarely turn on again unless I reset it. That screen is the map. At least Dan’s phone was working. Now on Google Maps, the directions were shouting at us, and the setback still made life easier than touring cyclists had it even ten years ago.
There weren’t many hills, but the hills we did have felt like molasses. I was incredibly homesick at this point. I think that’s what got me through this deceptively tough day.
• • • Day 9: Lititz, PA – Philadelphia, PA: 83.7mi
Yes, 83.7. I did not think going beyond the 80-mile mark was a smart idea, but it was the only idea. There’s no quitting on the last day. We probably could have taken a bus or train most of the way, but I was not interested. Despite being dead-tired, my mind dressed in iron-clad armor, and the determination to ride home was unfaltering. It became a survival tactic. No quitting.
Sometimes I forget how difficult this day actually was, especially at the beginning. I was gradually feeling the effects of dehydration, namely the lack of sweating on such a hot day, and feeling a bit sick. I almost threw up at the top of a particularly nasty hill. And after being painstakingly sore for so long, I realized was starting to push my body past its ultimate limits.
“So what. You’re getting home, dammit. DAMMIT!”
The hills began flattening out, which is my other enemy. I’m not a flats rider. My joints can’t handle the lack of variety, so I struggle big time. Just another straw on my CamelBak. My saving grace was that flats meant Philly. It’s closer than ever now! 27 miles of the Schuylkill Trail. Dan got so excited he started sprinting, calling towards his strengths from living in Miami. Normally, sprinting is my niche, but it was all him today. I still felt the renewed energy, though, and gave it my all. We cracked in at an average of 11.6mph that day. Call it a win.
My dad drove down to meet me and ride with me on the trail, but we actually got back to my house before he even hit Philly! There was a fantastic dim-sum celebration with the family. It was well-deserved. It was unreal. We accomplished a dream that some people remarked, “Why the hell would you want to do that to yourself?” All you guys can keep quiet. I’m damn proud of what we did.
Epilogue:
“Do what you love.”
I am incredibly lucky to have a supportive family that made sure I followed that mantra, no matter how bat-shit some of these stories sound. There’s an underlying desire I have to travel every state and listen to as many people as I can. I want to experience as much scenery while we still have it. I want to ride my bicycle until the frame shatters into dissolution.
Here’s what I learned on this trip: People will help you if you ask. We can’t make it in this world alone. I had so many last-minute moments where I had no choice but to call for help, and the returns came in spades. It gave me an incredible faith in the greater human connection. Somehow, I think we’re all woven together in this fabric.
I also learned how much stuff you actually don’t need. Even on this trip, there are so many things I should have ditched. It’s inspiring in a way to see people with less get by better than those with more.
I felt like a champion.
Tour Statistics:
Total Mileage: 567.9mi
Average Daily Mileage: 63.1mi
Longest Day: 83.7mi
Total Riding Time: 55:46:28
Average Daily Riding Time: 6:11:52
Longest Day: 8:30:00
Average Speed: 10.2mph
Top Speed: 44.1mph
Average Watts: 174w
Total Energy Output: 33,613kj
Average Daily Energy Output: 3,735kj
Total Calories Burned: 37,879
Average Daily Calories: 4,309
Video Link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9RacvOTcdPiT2M2NktWTkRaem8/view?usp=sharing
Dave's Cycling Blog 